Travel

Visit Gothenburg

Gothenburg/Göteborg
([jœtɛˈbɔrj], located on the west coast in the southern part of the country, is the second largest city in Sweden with just over 600,000 inhabitants. The city was founded in 1621 (for the second time after its short-lived predecessor was burned down by the Danish). As Gothenburg is built on top of marshes, Dutchmen were brought in for their city building skills on wetlands to construct the city. Gothenburg’s location on the coast has been crucial for the development of the city and its character, which since its foundation has been an important center for trade (it was for example the base for the Swedish East India Company in the 18th-19th centuries). The city hosts the largest port in Scandinavia and has historically had a significant shipbuilding industry. Gothenburg is also an important industrial city and home to companies such as Volvo and SKF.

The weather is fickle, and July can be sunny with 25-30 degrees or rainy and windy with 12 degrees (if you stay for a week or so you may experience both). So be prepared and check the forecast before traveling. As the saying goes in Sweden: “there is no bad weather, only bad clothes” (this is catchier as it rhymes in Swedish).

A fair warning: Gothenburg has for some years been undergoing significant reconstruction works that won’t be finished for years. Bear that in mind when going around the city. It mainly affects car travel, but also to some extent public transport. Hopefully you won’t notice it much.

Go sightseeing on Paddan

This sightseeing boat (known as ‘the toad’) will take you around the canals of Gothenburg and even make a brief cruise through the port, while guides provide you with an crash course in the city and its history (as well as an abundance of jokes at the expense of Stockholmers, which is funny the first couple of times…). If you’d like to expand on your core knowledge of Gothenburg, take the opportunity to also see the Kopparmärra statue at close by Kungsportsplatsen, and the square Gustaf Adolfs Torg where the statue King Gustav Adolphus II who founded the city is found pointing out where the city shall lie. This square is also home to Gothenburg City Hall, and a couple of minutes away you will find Kronhusbodarna, one of the oldest buildings in the city where you can have a fika and visit craft shops.

Take a day trip to one of the islands in the Gothenburg archipelago

The archipelago is characterized by its bare cliffs, perfect for drying off in the sun after a dip in the sea (if the weather allows). We recommend visiting one of the islands in the southern archipelago, such as Styrsö, Donsö or Brännö (ö [øː], is a Swedish letter and also the word for island). These can be accessed by boat, which departs from the ferry terminal at Saltholmen, which is reached by tram number 11. You can buy a day ticket to go on all trams, buses and ferries.

Take a day trip to one of the islands in the Gothenburg archipelago

The archipelago is characterized by its bare cliffs, perfect for drying off in the sun after a dip in the sea (if the weather allows). We recommend visiting one of the islands in the southern archipelago, such as Styrsö, Donsö or Brännö (ö [øː], is a Swedish letter and also the word for island). These can be accessed by boat, which departs from the ferry terminal at Saltholmen, which is reached by tram number 11. You can buy a day ticket to go on all trams, buses and ferries.

Enjoy a Swedish fika at a Café

Fika is the concept of taking a moment to sit down and have a coffee and/or pastry. Swedes generally do this at least once a day. A great spot to do this is in Haga, a cozy former working class neighborhood with plenty of cute shops to browse. Café Husaren is known for their gigantic cinnamon buns! And while closeby, why don’t you walk up to Skansen Kronan for a view of the city!

Spend a day at Liseberg

This amusement park has been around for a century, is a Gothenburg classic and the largest in Sweden. It was even selected as the second best amusement park in Europe a couple of years ago. It offers something for everyone: roller coasters and an arcade for thrill seekers, lotteries with huge candy prizes for the sweet tooth, and beautiful gardens for those looking for a more serene visit. There are plenty of rides for young children or for those preferring more tranquil experiences. The formerly calm Liseberg lookout tower was however transformed into a drop tower a few years ago (the second tallest in Europe), where from you can enjoy the view of the city for a short while before suddenly dropping a 100 meters.

Visit the fortress Nya Älvsborgs fästning

This fortress was built in the 17th century (though its predecessor had already been around for centuries – hence nya fästningen, meaning ‘new fortress’ in Swedish) used to be the last guardpost for Sweden against the Danish at a time when the two countries were almost constantly at war with one another. It is located in the port of Gothenburg and can be reached by ferry.

Enjoy a park (if the sun is out)

Gothenburg has plenty of green spaces. If you want to spend a relaxing afternoon, why not visit The Garden Society, Slottsskogen or the Botanical Gardens? The Garden Society (Trädgårdsföreningen) is a green space right by the canal in the city center, and provides a nice break from the city bustle of Gothenburg the metropolis. Slottsskogen is a mix of city park and natural green areas and is a great place to unwind – there is even a zoo! Right across from Slottsskogen you’ll find the Botanical Garden, which offers a vast collection of plants and flowers, and if you venture a bit farther inside the park and climb the hills you’ll get a nice view of the city!

Visit a museum (if it’s raining - which, let’s face it, is more likely)

There are plenty of museums in Gothenburg. A few suggestions would be: the City Museum for those wanting a deeper understanding of Gothenburg’s history and as it happens it is located in the old headquarters of the Swedish East India Company; Röhsska Museum of design and crafts; or Gothenburg Museum of Art. The two latter ones are located on Avenyn, the main boulevard of Gothenburg. On the square Götaplatsen below the staircase leading up to the art museum you will find the seminal Poseidon statue (see picture above), a trademark symbol for the city. 

Eat and snacking

Try the seafood

Gothenburg, a port city on the sea, has always been a place for seafarers and fishermen. There are many ways and places to experience its well-renowned seafood. One of the best is to go to Feskekôrka (the Fish Church). This former fish market has recently reopened after reconstruction, and has been reshaped to look less like a market and more like a restaurant/fish shop. If you, like Hannes, who out of principle objects to eating fish (for which he would applaud you), it is still worth walking along the water and taking in this seminal landmark. Other notable seafood restaurants include Sjöbaren in Haga; Sjömagasinet, which is located in the port area in what used to be a storage facility for the East India Company; and Fiskekrogen at Lilla Torget.

Try the local specialties

The signature Gothenburg fast food meal is the hel/halv special (a full or half special). A hel special is two hotdogs with mashed potato on top, whereas a halv special includes only one hotdog. Some like Västkustsallad (West Coast Sallad) on their special, a sort of seafood spread. A special is best enjoyed together with a Pucko (a brand of chocolate milk), also known as Stockholmare (pucko is incidentally Swedish for “idiot”). These can be found in any hotdog kiosks around the city, but a great option (including for vegetarians/vegans) is Jonsborgsgrillen on Avenyn. Allegedly, Gourmetkorv with their three locations are also quite good, but they seemingly have no vegetarian option.

Another, slightly fancier, option, is the räkmacka (shrimp sandwich). This is perhaps not exclusive to Gothenburg, but a product of the larger West Coast. It is considered a delicacy and well worth a try if you like indulging in seafood.

Eat some seriously unhealthy Swedish fusion food

This fusion between Italian and Turkish food has become extremely popular in Sweden – and with Ji Yeon. If you like pizza and kebab, what’s not to like, right? The Kebab Pizza can be found in virtually any non-upscale pizza shop, including at one of the multiple locations of Sannegårdens Pizzeria. Swedish pizza is already generally way greasier than the Italian original, and one of these might just give you a heart attack. You’ve been warned.

Taste some traditional food by eating like a worker

Swedish husmanskost, which roughly translates into potluck or home cooking, is simple, inexpensive and hearty food that won’t leave you hungry (unless perhaps you’re spending your day doing heavy manual labor). Husmanskost refers to a variety of dishes, and is more or less synonymous with traditional Swedish food. The most famous one would be meatballs, usually served with mashed potatoes, brown sauce and lingonberry jam. A piece of meat with some potatoes in some form, often cooked with a good portion of cream, is common for this type of food. On Thursdays pancakes and pea soup is typically served. This type of food is best experienced at a lunch restaurant of this kind on a weekday, for example: Berzelius Bar & Matsal Löfqvist Å Vi; Kåges Hörna och Kågebaren; Bee Kök & Bar; or for a slight twist Bamba (which is Gothenburg slang for school cafeteria).

Feast on world-renowned Swedish candy and baked goods

Swedish bulk confectionery, bought by the pound, can be found in virtually all supermarkets in Sweden. Grab a bag, fill it with your favorites and enjoy!

We’ve also already mentioned fika. Here is just a note that there are plenty of Swedish baked goods that are not cinnamon buns, such as chocolate balls, cardamom buns, and many more cakes, pasties and biscuits. Be brave when going for that fika!

Bars and nightlife

Visit Järntorget, Linnégatan and Andra Långgatan, the best bar street in Sweden

Andra Långgatan (Second Long Street) is a classic bar street, and one of few of its kind in Sweden. During the academic year it’s littered with students, as it is famous for its string of cheap beer bars. Nowadays most of the street is filled with hipster beer bars however (and there’s even a Korean restaurant). The entire area is great for going out for a drink: why not try out Tredje Långgatan, or even Fjärde Långgatan. Or why not continue upwards on Linnégatan (try for example Hagabion) or walk down towards the canal/port?

Visit a tap room

 Tap rooms have become a huge thing in the past few years. There is a bunch of really good ones in Gothenburg, including Spike (in Gamlestan) or Vega in somewhat industrial locations, or ones in more urban near parts such as Stigbergets or Poppels.

Views from above

Hopefully July will (even though it’s not a given) mean sun and mild temperatures. If it does, you’ll be sure to see Swedes worshipping the sun all over. One way to do so is of course to enjoy the view from a rooftop bar. There are a few in Gothenburg, such as Henriksberg where you can enjoy a nice view of the port. Henriksberg’s ground floor is also a great place if you feel like playing pool, air hockey, shuffleboard and many other games. Another one, which you can visit if you’d like to see the view from Skansen Kronan (as mentioned above), Skanshof is right next door. Other good rooftop hangouts include TaKeT and Cielo.